In my last blog, I took you to Matera. This week, I'm taking you across the Puglia region to some of the towns we stayed in and explored. Our first stop is Tenuta Negroamaro near Gallipoli.
Tenuta means estate in Italian and I had read there are many across the Puglia region that offer accomodations.
Our lovely room had a private courtyard and a small pool, however, the cool weather made it a plunge pool rather than a swimming pool. We loved the quiet of the countryside, but drove into Gallipoli our second day, an old fishing village, to explore.
This town sits on the Taranto Bay on the Ionian Sea. The beautiful water and blue fishing boats made me want to sit and stare out at the sea all day, but we walked around the village, had an apertivo perched at a seaside table,
then wandered over to Il Bastione for lunch, seaside of course, before heading back to the tenuta. The next day we counted as a luxury day of doing nothing. We read and wrote, found lunch two miles up the road at a locals place, and back at the tenuta, basked in the sun.
The next day we were off to Lecce where we stayed in a big old hotel that made me think of The Grand Budapest Hotel, the part of the movie that takes place in 1968 (one of my all time favorite movies, btw) so envision a hotel a bit outdated, slightly rundown, old furniture, surplus art on the walls, and a breakfast room of tour bus groups, and you've got it pictured.
We explored the town our first day, had a delicious meal of salads and pucces (an Italian sandwich) and found all kinds of beautiful shops. Before going back to hotel for the evening, we found a wine bar and settled in to watch the Swifts perform their nightly sky routines.
They are a mesmerizing bird to watch, both at sunset and sunrise. The next day we took a tour with Lorenzo, a local, who knew the history and architecture of the city from the Romans,
to the Normans, the Spaniards, and finally the Italians.
(Adam Sandler disguised as Lorenzo, our guide) Midway through our tour, he took us to a beautiful restaurant with a courtyard where we were served Caffe´ Leccese, an espresso served with a cup of ice and a shot of almond syrup. You pour espresso over the ice and add your syrup for a most delicious treat of a drink. Yum.
We ended at the church of Santa Croce, the 2nd most important work of Baroque in the world. The facade is stunning.
Next day we were off for a day trip to Otranto. We chose it because we could get there by train. But first, a Caffe´ Leccese at the station.
Otranto, about an hour from Lecce, perches on the top of a cliff over looking the sea and meanders down and around to sea side.
I had read about a chapel with frescos on the wall I wanted to see, and a church with amazing mosaic floors, along with 7 glass walls, filled with the skulls and bones of the martyrs killed by the Ottomans on 14 August 1480.
Neither disappointed. And though I generally eat plant based, I occasionally have fish and that did not disappoint either. Enrobed in salt and baked, filleted table-side, along with roasted veggies
and a sparkling dry white wine, it turned out to be one of my favorite meals. (I think I say that a lot.) After a tour of the castle, meh, which included a Frida Kahlo exhibit of black and white photos of her life, very interesting, we made our way back to the train and enjoyed the endless olive trees across the land, their silvery leaves sparkling in the late afternoon sun. Beautiful.
A few more images.
Next week, Ostuni, Alberobello and Monopoli. Hope you'll come back. If you enjoy, share with a friend and post to your favorite media. If you have questions, let me know in the comments. There are so many posts out there recommending where to stay, where to eat, what to see, but travel is a personal journey. I don’t make specific lodging or dining recommendations. Researching the trip before you go is part of the fun and excitement of being there. Discovering places we wanted to eat when we got there was awesome. I hope you will do the same. Take care my friends!
Ciao!
Peace and Joy,
Jane
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